[Brian Spencer, Pilgrim Souvenirs and Secular Badges: Medieval Finds from Excavations in London. London: Stationery Office, 1998, pp. 226 : ]
The more complete specimen was recovered from the Vintry coffer-dam in 1990 (VHAsp h 43mm). on the front (239b, left) is depicted a figure of Our Lady on a portable throne, which is being carried in procession on a litter by two men moving from left to right. The Virgin has an exaggeratedly large head. The infant Christ holds a book and is given a cruciform nimbus. On either side of the Virgin is a pilaster, a censer on a chain and a candle in a tripod holder. At her feet lie several hand crutches, presumably left as ex voto offerings by those cured of paralysis of the legs. A retrograde inscription at the top and sides, in mixed Roman and Lombardic capitals, includes the Latin name for Chartres. Reading anticlockwise from the left-hand fleuron of the Virgin's crown, the inscription may be construed thus: S[IGNVM] BEA[T]E MARIE CARNOTENSIS TAE (? TABVLE, or perhaps its diminutive TABELLE or TABELLATE). High spots, like the Virgin's head and knees and the ends of the armrests, have been worn smooth.
On the reverse (239b, right) is depicted a chasse of Romanesque form, supported at the sides by two substantial columns with capitals and bases and tores at the middle. Beneath the chasse is shown the Virgin's nightgown, as if displayed on a pole‑like hanger. The stylised, tabard-like, depiction of this relic was to continue under the name of chemisette de Notre-Dame or de Chartres on Chartres pilgrim souvenirs until the 17th century (van Beuningen & Koldeweij 1993, 218, no. 445). The same form was also to be adopted elsewhere, notably at Aachen (Koster 1983b, pl 1-4; van Heeringen et al. 1987, 66-70). Here, on the Vintry find, the chemisette is flanked by fleurs-de-lys and beneath it, perhaps to remind the pilgrim of the vital importance of oblations, is depicted a coin, a denier Chartrain, bearing part of the arms of Chartres (Williams, J. W. 1993, 118-19). The prototype coin is considered to be of 13th century date (Forgeais 1865, 118-19, Lecocq 1876, 215-17; Vaultier 1958, 41). Judging from comparable pilgrim signs, this badge would originally have had four stitching-rings (Lecocq 1876, figs 8, 11).